Ten years ago, an article by Bruce Schoenfeld in the New York Times Magazine captured the tension between wine critic Robert Parker and the new generation of sommeliers. Parker favored big, fruit-forward wines, while sommeliers sought more nuanced styles.
The article prominently featured Domaine de la Côte, a Santa Barbara County vineyard known for its cooler climate and the collaboration between winemakers Sashi Moorman and Raj Parr. Despite being a flagship example of a different approach to Pinot Noir, Schoenfeld’s article dismissed the wines, stating that some were nearly flavorless, and others unpleasant. This created a stir, but over time, opinions have evolved.
Since the article was written, significant changes have occurred. While Parr is still involved with Domaine de la Côte financially, he now spends most of his time at his regenerative farm in Cambria. Robert Parker, a central figure in wine criticism, has retired, and Schoenfeld, once a passionate voice in the wine world, has shifted his focus entirely to sports journalism. The organization In Pursuit of Balance, which was discussed in the article, has since disbanded, showing how the wine scene has changed over the past decade.
Sashi Moorman, the winemaker at Domaine de la Côte, continues to be a major influence on California Pinot Noir, despite his low public profile. Moorman’s commitment to working with challenging, cold-climate vineyards and his focus on minimal intervention has kept him at the forefront of a movement away from the big, bold wines that once dominated. His methods, including using California heritage Pinot Noir clones for their smaller yields, reflect a dedication to producing wines that express their terroir, though this approach requires patience and acceptance of lower yields.
Domaine de la Côte’s estate vineyard, once isolated in the western Sta. Rita Hills, now finds itself surrounded by vineyards owned by some of Napa’s wealthiest wine producers. This shift raises questions about how their wines will compare to Moorman’s, who planted his vineyard with an eye toward creating wines that are hard to produce but deeply expressive of their environment.
Moorman’s dedication to achieving difficult-to-reach ripeness levels, alongside his decision to use new oak barrels for their microbiological benefits, reflects a more Burgundy-inspired philosophy of winemaking that prioritizes terroir over stylistic uniformity.
Moorman’s long-term project of growing Pinot Noir from seed further underscores his commitment to innovation. While the project is still years away from fruition, it holds the potential to revolutionize the way Pinot Noir is grown in California. Moorman remains focused on the future, even if that means he may not live to see the full impact of his efforts.
Meanwhile, the wines of Domaine de la Côte, once priced at $45 to $90, now command prices over $100, with a waiting list to purchase them. Despite Schoenfeld’s skepticism, it seems the wines have not only found a devoted following but continue to affirm the vision of Moorman and his partners.