Cyprus’ Commandaria wine, praised by Greek poets like Homer and Euripides nearly 3,000 years ago, holds the title of the world’s oldest named and recorded wine. This sweet, amber-colored wine has a storied history, deeply entwined with European royalty and medieval traditions.
It was served at the wedding of England’s King Richard the Lionheart in 1191 and won what is believed to be the world’s first wine competition under France’s King Philippe Augustus in the 13th century. The medieval Knights Hospitaller renamed it “Commandaria” after their estate, Grande Commanderie, during the Third Crusade, further solidifying its reputation.
Commandaria’s Market Struggles and Unique Qualities Shaped by Cyprus’ Volcanic Soil
Despite its rich past, Commandaria has struggled to gain a strong foothold in the modern wine market. Though once a prized commodity during the Venetian rule of Cyprus in the 15th and 16th centuries, production and demand have dwindled. While bottles now sell for anywhere between €20 to €150, annual production remains low, with around 200,000 bottles produced in recent years.
A significant blow came with the loss of Russian tourists—once major consumers—due to sanctions imposed after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. Attempts to expand into China showed initial promise but stalled due to supply limitations.
Commandaria’s Legacy Faces Modern Hurdles as Cyprus’ Ancient Wine Seeks Global RecognitionCommandaria’s distinctive taste stems from Cyprus’ volcanic soil, which imparts notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee, and caramel. Made from indigenous Mavro and Xynisteri grapes, the wine undergoes a natural sun-drying process for up to 12 days to intensify its sweetness.
Strict European Union regulations ensure its authenticity, restricting production to 14 villages on the sun-drenched slopes of the Troodos mountains. Some wineries, like Karseras in Doros, specialize in a darker, richer version made exclusively from Mavro grapes, catering to those who prefer a more intense sweetness.
Marketing Challenges and Revival Efforts: Commandaria’s Journey to Global Recognition
According to wine expert Demetri Walters, Commandaria has struggled internationally due to a lack of effective marketing, particularly from its primary producer, KEO. Walters believes that while sweet wines are generally out of fashion, Commandaria’s unique qualities and history make it a hidden gem.
In recent years, the wine has entered the UK market as a niche product, and small wineries such as Revecca in Ayios Mamas have seen growing interest both domestically and internationally. With a focus on quality over quantity, some producers are experimenting with custom-made varieties to cater to specific consumer tastes.
Despite challenges, Cyprus’ micro-wineries remain hopeful about Commandaria’s future. Revecca Winery, which has seen steady growth since its establishment in 2015, won top honors at a national competition last year. Small-scale producers believe that securing domestic loyalty is key before expanding globally.
Philippos Karseras, manager of the Karseras winery, notes an increase in local consumption but acknowledges that it has yet to compensate for the loss of Russian buyers. Nikolas Christodoulides of Revecca emphasizes the need for consistent quality and a strong home market before making a collective push for international recognition, ensuring that Commandaria reclaims its place among the world’s finest wines.
