While visiting the southern part of Bolivia, a guide named Orlando Condori introduced the group to the spiritual practice of honoring Pachamama, the Earth Mother in Andean culture. As part of a ceremonial gesture, the group poured rosé wine onto the ground, a symbolic offering of gratitude to Pachamama.
Despite not fully understanding the significance at first, the writer participated, only to discover that the lightheaded feeling they experienced was due to the high altitude, around 3,500 meters or 11,000 feet, not the wine.
The group was on a plateau overlooking the Cordillera de Sama Biological Reserve, an expansive area in Bolivia’s Tarija province. This province, which borders Paraguay and Argentina, is rich in diverse landscapes. It boasts forests, deserts, lakes, mountains, and a range of wildlife such as llamas, alpacas, and flamingos.
The region is also famous for its wine production, which is gaining attention despite being relatively unknown globally. Tarija’s varied topography and climate make it an appealing destination for wine lovers and nature enthusiasts alike.
Bolivian spirituality is deeply rooted in Indigenous traditions that trace back centuries. Dr. Niki Barbery-Bleyleben, a social policy expert, explained that Andean cosmovision, the worldview of the region’s indigenous people, perceives the past as what lies ahead, while the future is behind because it is unseen. This perspective shapes cultural practices, such as the offering to Pachamama, where people express gratitude to Mother Earth for the resources and blessings she provides.
Tarija’s High Altitude Wines, Unique Vineyards, and the Rise of Bolivian Singani Spirit
The exploration of Tarija’s wine country revealed that the region’s high altitude is a key factor in producing exceptional wines. Jurgen Kohlberg, owner of Bodega Tayna, explained that the altitude allows for growing pinot noir, one of the highest altitude pinot noirs in the world.
However, the challenge lies in the lack of fertile soil, with the vineyard’s ground made up of tiny rocks called “lajas.” Despite these obstacles, Kohlberg is determined to produce the best pinot noir and harvests the grapes at night, in complete silence, to maintain the magical quality of the wine.
Campos de Solana is another prominent vineyard in the region, known for its grandeur and manicured pathways. Luis Pablo Granier, the vineyard’s general manager, shared that the climate at Tarija’s latitude, typically too hot for winemaking, is compensated for by the high altitude.
This unique combination allows the production of wines that defy conventional winemaking expectations. In addition to wine, the vineyard also produces Singani, a Bolivian spirit made from Muscat of Alexandria grapes, which is becoming increasingly popular.
Singani, a liquor distilled from wine, has a rich history in Bolivia. Franz Molina from Bodega Kuhlmann explained that the Spanish colonizers created Singani as a way to preserve wine that spoiled during transport to the coast.
This spirit, often compared to cognac or pisco, is deeply ingrained in Bolivian culture. Hollywood filmmaker Steven Soderbergh, impressed by the complex and smooth taste of Casa Real Singani, even partnered with the brand to introduce it to the United States under the name Singani 63.
Exploring Tarija’s Evolving Gastronomy, Local Artisanal Treasures, and Bolivia’s Hidden Cultural Gems
During the trip, the group experienced the evolution of Bolivian gastronomy, with meals like those at the Kohlberg Winery’s Atmósfera restaurant. Chef Pablo Cassab emphasized sustainability, using every part of ingredients to reduce waste.
The growing interest in Bolivian wine is coinciding with an increased recognition of the country’s food scene, with Tarija emerging as a destination for wine and fine dining. The region’s culinary offerings are gaining recognition beyond La Paz, as the country’s gastronomic culture continues to develop.
The visit also included stops at local shops in Tarija, where the group purchased handmade alpaca shawls and Incan-inspired jewelry. Bolivia’s charm extends to its people, culture, and artisanal products. After a rainy afternoon, the group experienced a moment of reflection, contemplating how Bolivia is a hidden gem, offering not only spectacular landscapes but also rich cultural and culinary experiences.
As the trip progressed, the writer reflected on the unexpected discoveries in Bolivia—grapes thriving at high altitudes, a vibrant gastronomy scene, and the unique cultural practices that connect the country to its roots. Much like Neil Armstrong, who was struck by the beauty of Bolivia’s Uyuni salt flat after seeing it from space, the writer found themselves in awe of Bolivia’s stunning landscapes and rich culture, a destination full of surprises and beauty waiting to be explored.