Ribera del Duero, a region famous for its world-class Tempranillo wines, recently allowed the bottling of Albillo Mayor, a white grape variety, sparking skepticism among wine enthusiasts. Many wineries in the area already produce white Verdejo in neighboring Rueda, making the addition of another white variety seem unnecessary.
However, Albillo Mayor has quickly proven its potential for crafting complex, age-worthy wines rather than the fresh and fruity whites Spain is often associated with. With some of the best wineries in the region investing in this grape, Albillo Mayor is now poised to mature gracefully in cellars, offering a new dimension to Ribera del Duero’s winemaking identity.
Although Albillo Mayor was officially recognized as a single-varietal wine in 2021, its history in the Duero Valley dates back to the Middle Ages. Traditionally, it was used in small amounts to blend with Tempranillo, much like how Viognier complements Syrah in France’s Rhône Valley, adding floral notes to the wine’s bouquet.
Many existing Albillo vineyards in the region are over 50 years old, resulting in lower yields but highly concentrated flavors. These factors contribute to its ability to produce nuanced and complex wines, making it a valuable addition to Ribera del Duero’s winemaking repertoire.
Pioneering Wineries and Winemakers
One of the early champions of Albillo Mayor is Bodegas Valduero, led by sisters Yolanda and Carolina García Viadero. They began experimenting with the grape in the 1990s after acquiring a vineyard with 12 acres of Albillo Mayor. In 2012, before it was officially recognized under Ribera del Duero regulations, they started producing a long-aging white wine, with their current release being the 2016 Blanco Reserva.
Carolina highlights the grape’s consistently high acidity as one of its key strengths. Their pioneering efforts extended to using Canadian oak for barrel aging, an innovation-led by winemaker Yolanda. Carolina, the first woman to lead Ribera del Duero’s wine regulatory council, played a crucial role in securing official recognition for Albillo Mayor.
Though only a small number of wineries currently produce 100% Albillo Mayor wines, its success is attracting attention from more producers. April Cullom, a winemaker under the Alma de Vino label, praises the grape for its tropical fruit, peach, and citrus aromas, noting that barrel aging can add spice notes similar to Chardonnay.
She suggests pairing Albillo Mayor wines with pork, roasted chicken, or grilled vegetables, highlighting their versatility. Similarly, Marcos Yllera of Grupo Yllera sees the grape as a symbol of the region’s ecological diversity. Once nearly extinct due to the rise of red wines, Albillo Mayor is making a comeback, showcasing freshness, elegance, and authenticity in wines like Yllera’s Meraldis Albillo Vinificación Integral.
Expansion Beyond Ribera del Duero
Beyond Ribera del Duero, wineries such as Bodegas Clunia are also embracing Albillo Mayor under the Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla y León appellation. With vineyards at high altitudes of 3,280 feet, winemaker Pablo Pavez emphasizes the role of extreme climate in shaping the grape’s fresh aromas and balanced mouthfeel.
The significant temperature variations between day and night during ripening slow the process, allowing Albillo Mayor to develop its signature flavors of apricot, pineapple, and grapefruit. Aging in oak further enhances its complexity, reinforcing the grape’s potential as a serious and sophisticated white wine.
Initially, doubts surrounded Albillo Mayor’s viability in Ribera del Duero, as many wineries already produced white wines in Rueda. However, tasting multiple vintages has revealed its true potential. The grape excels when aged in barrels and further matured in cellars, producing wines with richness, complexity, and a structure reminiscent of white Burgundy.
Currently, only about 1,235 of Ribera del Duero’s 57,000 vineyard acres are dedicated to Albillo Mayor, with around 30 wineries producing it, but this number is expected to grow. Prominent wineries such as Pinea, Callejo, Clunia, and Valduero are leading the way, ensuring Albillo Mayor earns its place as an exciting and valuable addition to Spain’s prestigious winemaking tradition.