While Rioja is traditionally associated with red wines made from the Tempranillo grape, the region has a long history of producing white wines. Before the phylloxera outbreak in the late 19th century, white grape plantings were more prominent than red, though this shifted over time. In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in white Rioja as consumer preferences have evolved.
The region now produces white wines using both native grapes, such as Viura, Tempranillo Blanco, and Garnacha Blanca, and international varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. These wines range from fresh and fruity to complex and age-worthy.
Bodegas Ollauri-Conde de los Andes: A Leader in White Rioja
One of the most distinguished producers of white Rioja is Bodegas Ollauri-Conde de los Andes, a winery with a deep-rooted history. The winery houses an extensive underground cellar with vintages dating back to 1892, including rare semi-sweet whites from 1916 and dry whites from 1926.
While the typical Rioja winery produces 90 percent red wine and only 10 percent white, Conde de los Andes dedicates 30 percent of its production to white wines. The winery was also a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, and a plaque marks his preferred spot in the cellar.
Conde de los Andes has preserved a remarkable collection of white wines, with vintages dating as far back as 1930. Some of these have been re-released under the Colleción Histórica label. The best vintages include 1930, 1948, 1964, 1983, 2010, and 2016, all showcasing the exceptional aging potential of white Rioja.
Recent tastings of 1983, 2010, and 2016, and an unreleased 2021 vintage reveal a consistent flavor profile of citrus fruit, tropical notes, soft spice, and minerality. These wines are full-bodied and pair well with a range of dishes, including seafood, poultry, pork, pasta, and even difficult-to-pair vegetables like artichokes.
The Aging Potential of Viura
The longevity of white Rioja, particularly those made from Viura, is due to its acidity and polyphenol content, which help maintain freshness and structure over time. Viura’s stable acidity preserves its bright aromas and flavors, while its polyphenols resist oxidation, allowing the wine to develop creaminess and complexity with age.
A striking example of its aging potential occurred at the Michelin three-star Restaurante Arzak in San Sebastian, where a 1930 Conde de los Andes Blanco was served blind to guests. They were astonished to learn that the wine, which tasted decades younger, was nearly a century old.
Winemaker Chema Ryan credits the winery’s success to the diversity of its vineyards, which include seven distinct plots with unique soil compositions and microclimates. Different vinification techniques, including aging in granite, cement, terracotta, and French oak barrels, further enhance the wines’ complexity.
While white Rioja has traditionally been consumed young, there is a growing interest in age-worthy white wines that mature gracefully over time. As appreciation for these wines increases, Rioja’s white wines are finally earning the recognition they deserve alongside the region’s famed reds.